Cranky says, "There
are lots of ways to bind a book, but they all fit into three
general categories. Library binding is my favorite . . . "
PLEASE NOTE! Cranky is now retired and no longer rebinding books. If you have a book needing rebinding, please check the recommendation message on the Home page!
Mechanically bound books are characterized by the pages being held together by a device of some sort. Sometimes this is as simple as a couple of screw posts tightened through punched holes. On the other end, custom designed looseleaf binders contain document pockets, indexes, and can be flipped and folded into a self-standing easel for group presentations.
Some forms of mechanical binding have become standards for particular
applications. For instance, wire binding, either of the coil or crimped type,
has become the most common method of binding flip-over page calendars. Plastic
binding is used extensively by cook book manufacturers because the books lie
flat on a kitchen counter while in use and the wide area of plastic on the spine
can be imprinted with the book's
title and other decorations.
Velo binding is an inexpensive "do it yourself" binding method sold to small offices and libraries. There are several variations on this method of interlocking plastic strips through small punched holes where function is more important than appearance or speed of production.
Pamphlet binding (Also called soft binding, magazine binding, saddle binding, and perfect binding.)
Magazines, catalogs, and soft cover books are generally of two types: Saddle
stitched or Perfect bound. Saddle stitched books open flat. Signatures are
inserted inside each other forming a V shaped "saddle"
and then two or more wire stitches are driven through the backbone to the center
of the book. Wire stitches look like staples, but are made of thicker wire.
Saddle stitching is appropriate for books about three-eighths of an inch or less
in total thickness
Thick soft cover books are usually Perfect Bound. This type of binding is
typical on catalogs, telephone books, and paperback novels. Sheets or signatures are
collated on top of each other. Then the backbone folds are removed by a rough
saw, coated with glue, and a cover is formed around the "square"
backbone. Perfect binding (also known as adhesive binding in some regions) can
accommodate books from about one-eighth inch to several inches thick. When
Perfect binding was first introduced, the book blocks were also wire stitched
from front to back. As books became thicker than a wire stitch could penetrate,
and glues became more reliable, stitching was left out of the process.
Saddle stitching and Perfect binding are inexpensive binding methods. Both were designed for books not expected to last long periods of time. Even though some paperback novels remain usable many years after they were purchased, soft cover binding is still more appropriate for catalogs and telephone books, which are seldom expected to last more than a year or so.
In the past decade, there has been a growing trend to use Perfect binding to fasten a book block into a hard cover. The only reason for doing this is to save the cost of sewing and proper casing-in. Books bound in this manner may look like a genuine library bound book, but they have an unfortunately shorter useful life. Many purchasers fooled by this type of binding are very disappointed when their books start coming apart after a relatively short period of time. Perfect bound books with hard covers should be considered to be in the pamphlet binding category, since there is nothing except glue holding this kind of book together.
Cranky says, "About the only time I get involved in mechanical or pamphlet binding is when someone wants one of those to last a long time. Then I hard bind it for them."
Library binding (also called hard binding, edition binding, and case binding)
Library bound books have been constructed in about the same way for over 500
years. Sheets or signatures are collated into a stack, then sewn together with
needle and strong thread. "Section
sewing" and "Smythe sewing" runs thread through the backbone of each signature in a manner similar to saddle
stitching, then the sewn signatures are attached together to form a strong
backbone. Single sheets and thin signatures are "side
sewn"
about 1/8 inch from the binding edge. Either method produces a sturdy and
flexible binding. Folded end sheets and headbands are attached to the book
block. Kraft or super is glued across the backbone to prevent the sewing from
stretching or coming loose and to form strong hinges where the end sheets and
covers will open and close. If necessary, the book is trimmed on three sides to
clean off signature folds, then the backbone is shaped into a slight curve
(rounded) and tucked to make a ridge along the spine (backed) that
will fit it snugly into the wrap-around cover (case).
Front and back covers are made of a thick cardboard core (board) and spaced apart an appropriate distance to accommodate the thickness of the book. Fabric or leather cover material is glued to the boards and a thinner piece of board that reinforces the spine. The cover material is wrapped around the edges of all three boards and securely glued. The spine and/or front cover is stamped with the book title and author. This assembly is now a "case." The outside end sheets of the book block are coated with glue and positioned into the case. Freshly made books are squeezed firmly in a "book press" device while the glue dries. Then the finished book is inspected prior to packing for return shipment.
Materials used in hard binding have changed over the years. Cover
boards were
originally made of real wood cut very thin and covered with leather or canvas. Modern cover
boards are made of very sturdy cardboard, which is less expensive, easier to cut
and handle, and often resists warping better than wood. Outside materials are
now often plastic or thin leather mounted to a strong fabric reinforcement
backing. Glues holding everything together are now cleaner, more flexible, and
remain secure for many years. Even the thread used for sewing has improved.
Modern bookbinding thread is stronger, resists moisture and dry rot, and
typically lasts much longer.
Genuine leather still produces the most attractive and durable books. Modern book leathers are also easier to keep clean than older covers. Many books bound in leather hundreds of years ago that received proper care are still sturdy and serviceable. Since leather was once alive, it retains oils that keep it soft and flexible. Harsh environmental conditions (excessively hot or cold, unusually dry or moist, etc.) affect these oils and will make leather stiff and brittle. But when treated right, leather will last like . . . well, like leather!
Imitation leathers and buckrams are also of much better quality and
durability than they were in years past. The plastic basis retains its flexibility
longer and the finish is tougher and easier to clean. Man-made cover materials
will give many years of service with very little maintenance. Modern imitation
leather products are also very attractive, and many are textured to appear similar to real
leather. Imitation leathers and buckrams are especially suited to situations
where economy is very important, or for books that may need frequent cleaning,
such as books for children and cookbooks.
Cranky says, "Genuine leather is a little more expensive than the imitation products, but a better value when durability and a long, useful life are important."
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